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It was love at first sight -- c'était le coup de foudre!
One visit to Le Massif de Charlevoix and we realized Cupid struck early...and pierced our hearts with one of eastern North America’s most untouched ski destinations.
Blessed by Mother Nature and beautifully poised 770 metres (2,526 feet) above sea level, Le Massif boasts Canada’s highest vertical drop east of the Rockies. Just one-hour east of Quebec City and perched dramatically close to the St Lawrence River, this resort is defined by the curves of its terrain, exotic Arctic feel and intoxicating vistas. Designated as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve with a microclimate that churns out an average annual snowfall of more than six metres (21 feet), and cuisine that was billed Best On Mountain Eating in Eastern Canada in 2007 by Ski Canada, Le Massif is an enticing destination.
Before opening her first lift in 1992, Le Massif was rather discretionary in her suitors -- the chosen few were shuttled up the mountain by school bus or snowmobile. Even today, the trails are still uniquely accessed (by car) from the summit rather than the base.
[left] Photography Benjamin Gagnon
In no time, word about Le Massif spread. In 2002, visionary Cirque du Soleil co-founder, Daniel Gauthier realized Le Massif was a “keeper”, and bought it for $9-million. A love affair ensued, with Gauthier investing an additional $5-million a few years later to replace a double chair with a high-speed quad and enhance snowmaking and trails (six new trails and glades).
Today, visitors to Le Massif can rip down any one of 48 trails and glades or jump off the beaten track for some off-piste skiing on 34 acres of untouched terrain. If the unyielding leg burn does you in, you can always check out the nearby town of Baie-Saint-Paul, just a short drive away. Speckled with art galleries, boutiques and restaurants, this charming town is famously known as the birthplace of Cirque du Soleil and inspiration for Canada’s Group of Seven painters.
But the area serves up more than just rugged terrain and pristine vistas; it will pleasure the taste buds with gastronomic delights that are a testament – long before it was cool – to the local and organic movement. Visitors to the area can take a day (or more!) to experience The Charlevoix Flavour Trail...a tour that highlights over 35 restaurants, breeders, cheese-makers, gardens, cider houses and boutiques. These culinary offerings promise to tempt everyone – yanking even the most die-hard skier or snowboarder off the slopes and making the most discerning gourmand impossibly weak in the knees.
[left] Photography Jean-Luc Brassard
If you’re there this spring, don’t miss the Great Horn Owl Event on April 3. Every year Chef Bessone hosts a slopeside, gastronomic event that highlights the most incredible food the Charlevoix region has to offer. A few of the items from last year’s menu were fine cheeses; grilled pork and smoked chicken wings; julienne of duck and tiny foie gras turnovers; migneron, mushroom and prosciutto risotto; and chocolate tarts.
It’s worth a trip just to sample this year’s menu!
The food, the mountain, the views...all are capable of sparking a love deep within even the most skeptical heart. And Gauthier’s investments continue.
He recently combined his creativity and passion for the area to create a tourism mega-project with a $230-million price tag and expected completion date of 2013. Dubbed the “anti-resort” by Mr. Gauthier this initiative is committed to sustainable development focusing on three distinct areas:
“The mountain” -- expansion of the existing services, lodging and activities at the summit of Le Massif.
“The farm” – 400 low-density, bioclimatic lodging units (complete with a spa, and tree and wind-units) built on the site of a burned-out farm in the nearby town of Baie-Saint –Paul.
“The train” -- a tourist train that will hug the shoreline between Quebec City and La Malbaie (created through the rehabilitation of the existing rail line).
To find out more about Le Massif, we tracked down Canada’s own freestyle mogul champ, Jean-Luc Brassard. In 1994 Jean-Luc captured our hearts when he won a gold medal in freestyle mogul skiing at the Winter Olympics in Lillehammer. And now, Le Massif de Charlevoix has stolen his heart. Jean-Luc will be part of this year’s Olympic broadcast/commentary team, but we caught up with him to find out more about his love affair with this rugged beauty…best après ski, best bumps and best place for those transcendent, deep-snow moments!
What do you think makes Le Massif unique to the other ski resorts?
It’s rare that a ski centre is situated above such a spectacular river, like the St. Lawrence. At Le Massif de Charlevoix the river is 22 km wide, and there are unlimited views towards the north east. It's pretty incredible...when you go down the slopes you can see ice floes and huge cargo boats arriving from European destinations.
What was your draw to Le Massif?
The unique spirit that surrounds the mountain…it’s like nothing I've ever experienced!
The on-mountain restaurants don’t offer any fried foods, burgers, fries, hot dogs, or soda! Just delicious local ingredients prepared by Chef Guy Bessone. He offers trout, bison, deer, cod...accompanied by all sorts of veggies and fruits.
The slopes are also very long and all with multiple, magical views of the river below.
Also, it’s the authentic atmosphere -- thanks to the village at the base of the mountain called Petite-Rivière-St-François.
How about some of the bests from Jean-Luc Brassard...can you tell DSM a little bit about your favourites?
Best run?
La Petite-Rivière is the ideal run for early day carving. The long and regular angle slope is perfect to get a real feel of what the mountain in all about...a real leg burner – you’ll be surprised to feel tired only half-way down the run!
Best run for moguls?
The "La 42" is an old school, long mogul run, reflecting the thrill of skiing -- irregular base, no fall line, huge moguls, and one of the most breathtaking views that you will ever see at the top of the run. It will be engraved in your memory, and will last a lifetime. No joke, you will tell your grandchildren about this run!
[left] Photography Benjamin Gagnon
Best location to take in the breathtaking view?
Top of "La 42", or top of "La Charlevoix" (the downhill course next to “La 42”)
Best place on the mountain for powder?
Glade trail "La Chaudière" half-way down the mountain. It's a little well keep secret for powder skiing! Good pitches, tight trees... hold on for the ride!
And for the real powder enthusiasts, best place on the mountain for the really deep stuff (you’ll need a snorkel!)?
It would definitely be a trail called Dominique Maltais, named after the local Olympian.
It is another glade, just right of the Camp-Boule chairlift. But don't spread the word too much, the locals will hate me!
(DS note: As you might have gathered, Le Massif gets some serious snow dumps! On February 20, 2009 it had a whopping 95 cm/3 feet!)
Best place to grab a bite on the mountain? What would you order?
The food is outstanding at all three of the restaurants! There's a crêpe shack at the summit of the "Camp-Boule" chairlift (my pick is always ham and cheese, but shhh!).
[left] Photography Jean-Luc Brassard
Great Horn Owl Event
Chef Guy Bessone
Olympic Gold Medalist, Jean-Luc Brassard
